Sunday, July 26, 2009

BEROWRA WATERS INN


I discovered a couple of weeks ago that dining at this restaurant is no small undertaking: It involves a lengthy drive north followed by a nervy descent to the water by way of a narrow, sinuous road and ending with a trip over water to the restuarant by way of two ferries. For dramatic effect i'd like to add that the waters were treacherous and that we were imperiled by a terrifying tempest and an array of sea monsters.
Moving back towards reality though, the trip is really rather tranquil, and while the ferry ride across the glassy expanse of still water is a matter of necessity given the isolated nature of the venue, it feels like a great novelty; a piece of fun that the restaurant has engineered to add value to the experience.

Things are no less impressive once inside the restuarant either, tables lined up against the windows which form one side of the building allow the sun to stream in and gives the diners a view of the water, docked boats and beyond, bushland. The service is also very friendly and helpful, welcoming us warmly and enquiring as to whether we are aware of their unique menu and ordering process. As it turns out, there is a set list of dishes- in our case twelve- arranged in order from lightest to heaviest, then cheeses and desserts. Price is determined by the number of courses you choose to endulge in. We went for five each and tried our best to order different dishes so that we could try as many things as possible- a good strategy as it turned out, as everything was excellent without exception.

Of note was my first course of steamed marron, served with a lovely peppered duck prosciutto and mimosa salad, over which was drizzled truffle vinaigrette and adorned with a generous array of WA black truffle batons.

Amazing presentation was present throughout the meal, especially in the venison dish, which was accompanied by a line of foie gras, cleverly made to look like distinct 'crumbs', and in the dish of veal shank, last on the list of savoury dishes and as such adjudged to be the 'heaviest' offering on the menu. A tian of fall-apart tender veal shank was wrapped, first in spinach and then in a coating of bone marrow, which, amazingly, was transformed into a spongy blanket for the meat. I first mistook this covering for pasta, but as soon as i tasted it, i knew precisely what it was and was astonished at the feat of kitchen wizardry that had produced it. It was accompanied simply with sauteed spinach, diced tomato and a caramelised shallot. It was, and is still, my favourite dish of 2009.

Following on from this was always going to be a big ask, but the cleverly designed cheese plate, each cheese served with its own unique accompaniment, and the sticky date pudding with creamy grand marnier ice cream proved a fine end to the meal.

Taking the ferry back across the water to my parked car was a suitably relaxing end to the experience and on the way i already found myself longing to return as soon as possible, possibly using a friend's upcoming birthday as a means to justify to myself the expense of the occasion. In closing, because i want to go watch neighbours, this restaurant is awesome and you should go there.





Amuse Bouche

Marron, duck prosciutto, mimosa salad, truffle vinaigrette


Grilled scallops, caramelised witlof, cauliflower, green apple reduction


Slow cooked ocean trout, mint oil, green peas, guanciale


Venison medallion, pumpkin, pine nuts, foie gras, blood orange


Side of spaetzle

Cauliflower and white truffle veloute

Veal shank, steamed bone marrow dumpling, spinach, shallot jus

Lamb cutlet, smoked eggplant, baby green beans, olives


- Organic goats cheese, VIC
- Raw milk gruyere style cheese, Switzerland
- Organic cows milk stilton, England
- Ossau Iraty sheeps milk cheese, France
- Tallegio washed rind, Italy


Sticky date pudding, butterscotch, orange fior di latte, grand marnier ice cream




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